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What are some building tips that would make a residential structure need the least maintenance?
Roofing?
Siding? (More choices than brick)
Crawlspace or not?
OSB vs. Plywood?
Windows?
Mechanicals?
And anything else?...
J.C.
P.S. I'm a little surprised a plumber hasn't chimed in for a metal prison toilet. :D:D:D
J.C.
Those are only found in prisons and you specifically said you didn't want it to look like a prison. So, they were smart enough to read directions and not suggest it.. . .or they didn't see the thread:p
I'm not sure if it would effect fire codes negatively. While the OSB would be in the wall and flammable, you still have your drywall barrier. And you can still finish the interior with paneling with no drywall. I'll have to inquire the fireman and inspectors I know.
Why not just finished sided plywood with paint?
J.C.
Garager, you mention alot of steel trim on fascia etc.
Do you mean metal covered? If not, what companies? Anyone tried the Tiger Foam products? Comparable R-Values to icenyne or is it the exact same?
P.S. I'm a little surprised a plumber hasn't chimed in for a metal prison toilet. :D:D:D
J.C.
I'm more worried about them hijacking this thread...
2x6 wood fascia w/metal, not wrapped just front look. As long as your roof doesn't leak, that should last for more than 100 years.
Once again, I haven't studied the Tiger Foam, so I can't give you a difference, if there is one....
If you have a low point on the lot/building site, you should be able to control rainwater with draintile, right?
J.C.
Plaster on interior walls? A little more info please. :rolleyes:
What kind of info you looking for? Its plaster board and then Plaster coatings, its a fantastic smooth "hard" finish. Notice the key word...
Is gable venting seen as inefficient/unnecessary?
Soffit to peak venting will release more hot air out of the attics then the gable ends can do. It works like a chimney...
What about steel studs?
I didn't think about that, sure. They would work great in interior walls, but exterior walls, you would want at least 5 1/2 in thickness for better insulation. I'm not sure if they make them at 5 1/2 wide. If they do, go for it, you'll have the straightest walls in town.
Stone countertops? Would there be a manmade equivalent that would come close in durability with less expense?
Man made, that'll work, cement will last a long time.
J.C.
This is a great thread, thanks for starting it... Other contractors will chime in, but each area in the states may need different materials, because of our climates...
I say copper for water and PVC for waste if you want maintenance free althoug make sure your water is optimal (i.e. pH and Chlorine content) for copper other wise..... ugh PEX. By no means do NOT use CPVC
I'm 100% dead against gutters myself, that is if you live in a climate that will cause an ice build up. Gutters will rot out fascias,soffits, rafter tails and roofs, damage asphalt shingles, because of the ice build up. They will also sag or break away from the weight of the ice. Summer time they are great, to keep the water away from the foundation. If only we could take them down easily enough in the winter time.
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Hope your rafter tails are perfectly cut P.C., or you'll see the wave....
:D
You are right, sir. My old house shows that issue to me and it is very bad now. The fascias is rotten already and I am looking for a solution now.
Geothermal heating if you had the area........
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! Good Idea!!!!!
Thinking about the hard plaster walls, there are a bunch of people who like to put OSB up in their shop behind the drywall. Lets you sink a screw anywhere. The plaster/impact board got me thinking about this, it would be pretty hard to punch through it, but of course you could still dent it up pretty well. I would be a bit worried about fire codes though.
DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!! when everything is done properly it will last the longest!
Just curious, why the opposition to gutters? I've seen places with them and I've seen places without them. Just wondering why you are opposed to them?
J.C.
2" poly pipe with 1" pex and armorflex underground! No digging if you ever need to replace just pull it out. that armorflex will hold it center of the pipe!
Geothermal!?
Don't get me started on investment vs. payback. Remember too, possible rental property.
Plumbing. Plenty of cleanouts. Least amount of turns in the DWV of course. Class 5 flushing or maybe Pressure assisted. Vents straight out the roof like in the days of old so no turns for the cable man.
PEX or TYPE L or K copper underground? $$$ :)
J.C.
This is one that could be added on forever, good thread...
Roofing.............. Steel
Siding................ Steel, cementacious (sp?) material
Windows............ Steel or Vinyl clad w/low E gas
Wood, over plywood and OSB. But certain applications can call for plywood over wood.
Fascia and soffits............ Steel
Doors................. Steel and Fiberglass
Flooring.............. Tiles and Cement
Counter tops........ Stone
Insulation............ Spray foam
Basement over crawl space, or slab house
Basement wall........ Cinder blocks, and the grounds (drain tiles and back fill)must be done right and water membrane on wall...
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House venting.... Soffits to peak, not gable
Lots of windows on South side, very little windows on the north side, just enough for cross winds when windows are open...
Plaster on interior walls
Real wood for interior trim....... Looks so much nicer and no Maint. unless your tired of looking at it and wanna change to a color
All appliances, energy star ratings
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One story house, w/a basement
Light fixtures and receptacles and switches, you get what you pay for, thats common sense right there.
Plumbing, plumbers can jump in, but I'm sure its all plastic and PVC.
I'll add more later...
1. Lighter colored Shingles, last longer
2. CertainTEED concrete board siding
3. Not sure with Crawl space I say yes from a plumbing standpoint
4. Plywood, it is just better
5. Hydro Air and AC
6. Concrete Pavers for driveway, Last longer than Asphalt
Excuse the ignorance, but what's Hydro Air systems?
What about metal roofing?
Interior flooring?
Interior wall finish?
Just thinking about building rental property so I would like it to be the least maintenance possible without having to make it look like a prison. :D
J.C.
I would suggest a properly poured and reinforced concrete basement wall over a block wall and then the proper water proofing treatments, and proper drainage,
Excuse the ignorance, but what's Hydro Air systems?
What about metal roofing?
Interior flooring?
Interior wall finish?
Just thinking about building rental property so I would like it to be the least maintenance possible without having to make it look like a prison. :D
J.C.
A hydronic coil with a blower...some southern states use them right off a water heater.
If you have a low point on the lot/building site, you should be able to control rainwater with draintile, right?
J.C.
If the foundation is water proofed very well and the perimeter of the foundation is back filled correctly, and drain tiles installed. Yes this should do the job, but over a period of time, all things will start to fail. It could be many many years before the drain tiles get plugged up, be sure to get the the drain tiles that have the sock on it....
Being that this will be a rental unit, I'm guessing it might be of some larger size of a structure, there could be 2 sump pits involved if there is a basement involved.
That's a good point. I'll have to price what guys get to hang/finish drywall around here. I know my limitations.:o
J.C.
One advantage of the OSB is that it makes hanging the drywall a piece of cake, because you don't need to hit a stud while screwing it in. :)
I don't know if I would try to tape/finish the drywall; but would probably have a go at putting it up. Taping/sanding right is really an art that I haven't yet mastered and wouldn't want to for a whole house.
:rant-on:
I've had 3 different sets of gutters on this house and ALL of them stop up within a few weeks of cleaning. We are not heavily wooded here either but it seems that at any given point doing the year there is a tree nearby that is dropping something. Whether it's leaves, nuts, stickerballs, some sort of twig that has green bean looking things on them, helocopters thingys.
I can't get a thing to grow 6" in my garden but that gutter plant is nearly 3 feet tall. My gutter cleaning company dropped me!
The house didn't have any gutters when it was built 100 years ago and it looks better without them, honestly. I'll live with the drip line as long as I don't have to climb a 40' ladder.:rant:
There! I feel better now :) Thanks JC
And that too!!!!! :D
I'm not sure if it would effect fire codes negatively. While the OSB would be in the wall and flammable, you still have your drywall barrier. And you can still finish the interior with paneling with no drywall. I'll have to inquire the fireman and inspectors I know.
Why not just finished sided plywood with paint?
J.C.
I would guess cost. If I remember correctly, OSB is ~$6/sheet, drywall is $5/sheet and plywood starts at $15/sheet even for really crappy looking CDX stuff.
That's a good point. I'll have to price what guys get to hang/finish drywall around here. I know my limitations.:o
J.C.
Putting OSB behind drywall could cause seam troubles. OSB expands and contracts alot, this is why there must be an 1/8" gap between sheathing. Because of the movement, this could cause cracks in the jointed area.
Your also dealing with window jams and door jams, you'll have to take that extra 1/2" into consideration. This also includes all interior doors. Manufacturers sells their products in proper dimensions, you need to remember this....
Garager, you mention alot of steel trim on fascia etc.
Do you mean metal covered? If not, what companies? Anyone tried the Tiger Foam products? Comparable R-Values to icenyne or is it the exact same?
P.S. I'm a little surprised a plumber hasn't chimed in for a metal prison toilet. :D:D:D
J.C.
Hardiboard the whole bathroom?
Metal studs here, or treated lumber? Once again, looking for longterm with least maintenance.
Thanks again to all replies.
J.C.
If you don't want to go the plaster route check your local suppliers for a drywall product we call impact board, we used it a lot on northern arena change rooms. This is tough stuff. If your tenents try punching holes in the walls they will be breaking a few knuckles.
I'm more worried about them hijacking this thread...
That's a great idea :) I think I'll do that
2x6 wood fascia w/metal, not wrapped just front look. As long as your roof doesn't leak, that should last for more than 100 years.
My wood wrapped facia lasted only 10 years :(
Once again, I haven't studied the Tiger Foam, so I can't give you a difference, if there is one....
I'm having new siding put on my house this week. I had to hire someone local. Garager's bid came in way over budget :D
Using all low maintenance materials. James Hardie cedar style planks on 1st level. Hardie Colorplus shingles for 2nd level. All Azek trim on doors and windows. Vinyl over aluminium railings. Azek facia and frieze board. Hardie soffit covers. AND NO MORE GUTTERS! Last years deck was composite material (Geodeck) Almost bought a copper roof a few years ago but just couldn't talk the wife into it. She thought the rain would keep her up at night.
When I had the basement dug out we installed a continuous plastic liner 4' up the block wall on the inside to capture any seepage through the old block wall and channel it into the drain tile.
Thanks Wrench and Duck!
I asked about Hydro Air a long time ago with little info given. Maybe I didn't know the correct term.
Are there any brands or websites? I went to a tradeshow where a company called FHP-Florida Heat Pump(I think?) made something to this effect. It seems theirs was a system where the heat pump and water heater worked together somehow for better efficiency. Trying to learn HVAC principles. :rolleyes:
J.C.
Hardiboard the whole bathroom?
Metal studs here, or treated lumber? Once again, looking for longterm with least maintenance.
Thanks again to all replies.
J.C.
And can you get a finished look to Hardiboard?
J.C.
:rant-on:
I've had 3 different sets of gutters on this house and ALL of them stop up within a few weeks of cleaning. We are not heavily wooded here either but it seems that at any given point doing the year there is a tree nearby that is dropping something. Whether it's leaves, nuts, stickerballs, some sort of twig that has green bean looking things on them, helocopters thingys.
I can't get a thing to grow 6" in my garden but that gutter plant is nearly 3 feet tall. My gutter cleaning company dropped me!
The house didn't have any gutters when it was built 100 years ago and it looks better without them, honestly. I'll live with the drip line as long as I don't have to climb a 40' ladder.:rant:
There! I feel better now :) Thanks JC
Hydro Air is a small like 3 section boiler that heats the water in a heat exchanger then goes into a traditional cental HVAC system
Why hydro air instead of just a regular hydronic system?
Plaster on interior walls? A little more info please. :rolleyes:
Is gable venting seen as inefficient/unnecessary?
What about steel studs?
Stone countertops? Would there be a manmade equivalent that would come close in durability with less expense?
J.C.
I'm also going to add one more thing about the gutters. When it comes to maintenance time for new paint, rarely will you see a painter take them down or a Home Owner and paint behind the gutters, then hang them back up. Water will still get between the gutter and fascia and start rotting out the fascia because it doesn't dry out very well.
Even w/drip edge on the edge of your roof, water will still get on the fascia board. Water loves to curl back at edges, there was a reason for old windows with a grove the size of a blade with. This grove ran the width of the window sill about a 1/2" in, water curls and hits this grove and drips off, never to get behind the siding. Sometimes the old designs were the best thing. But people would fill in this grove with lots of paint and the water would curl and get behind the siding. Most people don't understand about the grove and the reason behind it.... The End..... :lmao:....... Mark
Steel siding and roofing, has many appearances for eye candy now a days. Down south, you'd maybe go with Terracotta for roofs....
Composite deck
Brick patio or cement, is better then a deck.
2' overhang w/roofs
I would suggest a properly poured and reinforced concrete basement wall over a block wall and then the proper water proofing treatments, and proper drainage,
I was waiting for this one.... :D
Geothermal heating if you had the area........
I'm 100% dead against gutters myself, that is if you live in a climate that will cause an ice build up. Gutters will rot out fascias,soffits, rafter tails and roofs, damage asphalt shingles, because of the ice build up. They will also sag or break away from the weight of the ice. Summer time they are great, to keep the water away from the foundation. If only we could take them down easily enough in the winter time.
Hope your rafter tails are perfectly cut P.C., or you'll see the wave....
Sorry my bid was too high, I'm trying real hard to reach the Plumbers scale and to no success I may add.... :D
Excuse the ignorance, but what's Hydro Air systems?
What about metal roofing?
Interior flooring?
Interior wall finish?
Just thinking about building rental property so I would like it to be the least maintenance possible without having to make it look like a prison. :D
J.C.
Hydro Air is a small like 3 section boiler that heats the water in a heat exchanger then goes into a traditional cental HVAC system
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