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Russians in Paris
Published by: rose 2009-01-07

  • my russians are in a part of Paris that is slightly out of teh way and rundown - where would that be? It is 1923 -1924 They can walk from there to an area with more attractive shops and cinemas - where in Paris would this be? they end u[p in a park or a square - which one? (it does not have to be too big)in the area or nearbye and also a small theatre. One of them works as an extar in films - what films were being made in France at this time ? Did any Russians actually direct films? who were teh leading film makers? What current social and artistic ideas and practitioners would be of most interst to an educated White Russian ? What I need is a general 'French' context outside of their own national concerns.


  • Hello Gaucho - Before taking this further, I think I should check with you how nice the "attractive shops" need to be and how bad you want the "rundown" area to be. At the moment my thoughts are focussed on a particular area which was popular with emigr s, White Russian and otherwise, and artists, including filmmakers. Since you suggest your Russians have artistic interests, they might well be drawn to it. It was not a rich area, though by 1923, the caf s and main streets were becoming smarter. This area provides everything you describe - at least two cinemas, a small theatre, park etc. - unless you want there to be fashionable shops. Your Russians could be "out of the way", in a very poor area a mile or so distant, or somewhere a bit nearer and less poor, if you want. The neighbourhood I have in mind for the "attractive" area was not elegant, but had lively caf s and plenty of cultural activity. Just beyond, in the other direction from the poor rundown area, there was a department store. Let me know if you think this would be a suitable setting for your characters. Although there is a fair amount of information on life in 1920s Paris, it's quite hard to find information on shops, so please say if you have any specific requirements about these. Looking forward to hearing what you think. Thanks - Leli


  • that is very interesting - there are actually three areas: one where large numbers of emigres lived, as you say - with Russian cafes, shops, etc, and another area a bit apart from that, (a mile would be OK) which should be rundown, poor and shabby but not actually a slum. The shops are not ultra grand, just attractive and modestly fashionable - they would seem better than that to someone with no money!! Also nice enough to be recognised as fashionable to someone who once had had money and had some taste. If you need more clarification please ask - my knowledge of Paris is practically nil, which is why I sound vague.


  • Hello Gaucho - thanks for getting back to me. If you don't know much about Paris, let's start with a little orientation. The city is cut in half by the River Seine. To the south is the Left Bank, which was the centre of the artistic, literary and migr life of the 1920s. At the heart of it all was Montparnasse. I suggest that your Russians might live on the southern, shabbier fringes of Montparnasse, in Al sia, and walk half or three-quarters of a mile north to its lively centre. For smarter shops they might need to go slightly further, to the northern edge of the district, more like a mile from where they started. Many of the foreigners, including Russians, flooding into Paris in this period headed for the Left Bank. Montparnasse itself had an irresistible attraction for anyone interested in art or literature. The only possible drawback I can think of in choosing it as your setting is a rather exaggerated (?) reputation it had for poverty. I'll talk more about that in a minute, but first I'd like to say that it might be possible for me to shift the actual locations for you, as long as we stay on the Left Bank. So, when you've read through this answer and all the links, please get straight back to me if you'd like to go a bit further into some aspect of it. I thought, since you said you didn't know much about Paris, it would be better to offer you this and then tweak the details if necessary. This map showing the 20 arrondissements, or subdivisions, of Paris will help with an overview: http://www.parisbeyond.com/maps/map1c3.html In the little map you can see a yellow box showing the area covered by the larger scale map, which has Montparnasse in its lower right section. (Note how Montparnasse overlaps the arrondissement boundaries.) Your characters may live rather to the south, in the area around Rue d'Al sia in the fourteenth arondissement (click below the yellow box on your map to see Place (square) Al sia). Al sia, where the Minsk-born painter Soutine had a studio in 1924, could still qualify as Montparnasse but is on its fringes. In 1923, walking north from there to where the Boulevard Montparnasse meets Boulevard Raspail would bring you to the lively centre of the "quartier". This crossroads was known as "Carrefour Vavin" and had four caf s, all attracting custom from the avant-garde creative people of the day, as well as others who had come to soak up the atmosphere. Though this area had been solidly working-class at the turn of the century, after the war it was becoming more prosperous, with extra trade generated by the "buzz". In 1923 the D me caf added an enclosed glass terrace to accommodate the extra business. http://www.metropoleparis.com/2001/631/cafe631e.jpg http://posters.shoppingsavvy.com/Dome,-Montparnasse.html http://www.metropoleparis.com/2000/516/cafe516b.jpg Not surprisingly for Paris, much of the action was in the caf s. They were where "everybody" gathered, all day long, and in the evening there was more nightlife too: theatre, music hall, a couple of cinemas and gatherings in private "salons". The shops got classier as you headed north. There were big stores and small boutiques, though for the height of Paris fashion you'd have needed to cross the river to another area altogether. Some descriptions of Paris in the twenties rather romanticise the pennilessness of the "starving artists" in Montparnasse. It's true that many were not rich, but the situation has been exaggerated. Some of them were poor by middle-class, but not by working-class, standards, and were living on unearned income. In fact, a couple of them (Fujita and Modigliani) were known for installing baths and running hot water in their apartments, before electricity was widely available in French homes. The poverty idea was also fuelled by the difficulty some of the foreign exiles had in getting money from home during the first world war. At this time Marie Vassilieff, an artist born in Smolensk, opened a "cantine" offering cheap meals for migr artists in difficulty, but she saw no need to continue with this in the twenties. In the 1920s, not only was the D me adding a terrace, but whole new buildings were going up in response to new interest and money in the area, like this hotel whose fa ade dates from 1924: http://www.raspail-montparnasse.com/ Even before the war, some trend-setting new apartments went up nearby in the Rue Vavin. Their style was widely copied in the 20s and 30s. http://www.parisbalades.com/Arrond/14/14ebdMontparnasse.htm Heading north, you would find the university area, bookshops, including the famous "Shakespeare and Co" run by the American Sylvia Beach, and smarter caf s and shops, though information on shops is rather scarce. I'm hoping you have a paper street map of Paris to help you locate places, but if not, use this "Mappy" site, which is useful, though a bit fiddly: http://mappy.com/ If you type in "Vavin", it will offer you a map centred on Metro stop Vavin which is at the famous crossroads, the heart of Montparnasse, now renamed Place Pablo Picasso. ================== 1920s MONTPARNASSE ================== BACKGROUND ---------- "Thus began Montpanasse's golden age. 'Le Carrefour du Montparnasse Est le Centre du Monde' [The Montparnasse crossroads is the Centre of the World] was written on the back of the Caf du Parnasse's second exhibition catalogue in June 1921." http://www.metropoleparis.com/1999/403/403foujt.html "Paris attracted all kinds of artists from a wide range of nationalities, and in the years surrounding the First World War Montparnasse was the place to be." http://www.bbc.co.uk/music/features/paris/people.shtml "The caf s and bars of Montparnasse were a vital meeting place where new ideas were hatched and mulled over. " http://www.bbc.co.uk/music/features/paris/places.shtml "While most of the artistic community gathered in Montparnasse were struggling to eke out an existence, well-heeled American socialites such as Peggy Guggenheim and Edith Wharton from New York City and Harry Crosby from Boston were caught in the fever of creativity. Crosby and his wife Caresse would establish the Black Sun Press in Paris in 1927, publishing works by such future luminaries as D. H. Lawrence, Archibald MacLeish, James Joyce, Kay Boyle, Hart Crane, Ernest Hemingway, William Faulkner, Dorothy Parker and others. [...]The caf s at the centre of Montparnasse's night-life were in the Carrefour Vavin, now renamed Place Pablo-Picasso." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montparnasse "The bohemians' legacy is to be found in famous bars/brasseries/ seafood restaurants such as La Rotonde, Le Dome, Le Coupole, and Le Select, on the Boulevard du Montparnasse not far from its intersection with Boulevard Raspail." http://kunmr2.chem.ukans.edu/~dave/pages/aunicwindowr.htm "Only in 1923, when the D me was entirely renovated, was its celebrated terrace added, making it the most popular caf in Montparnasse" http://www.paris.org/Kiosque/oct00/montparnasse.html More on Montparnasse: pictures of Carrefour Vavin and "La Ruche" (the beehive) where many artists had studios. http://www.metropoleparis.com/2003/806/806ruche.html CINEMA & THEATRE ---------------- La rue de la Ga t , just to the west of the Montparnasse cemetery, was full of nightlife, including the Ga t theatre. It was a centre for restaurants, theatres and "guinguettes". (a dance hall/caf - usually open-air or on a terrace) "Des guinguettes, restaurants et th tres s'y taient agglutin s et firent de cette rue leur art re principale." http://www.histoire-en-ligne.com/article.php3?id_article=218 Th tre Montparnasse (later called Th tre Montparnasse-Gaston-Baty) http://fr.encyclopedia.yahoo.com/articles/m/m0005712_p0.html La Ga t Montparnasse - a theatre/music hall (click on "historique") http://perso.wanadoo.fr/gaite/cadre.html Picture of it here if you click on "Le quartier gait ": http://perso.wanadoo.fr/promeneur/14eme.htm (and links to toher parts of the 14th arrondissement) (Today's Ga t Lyrique is in another part of Paris.) Bobino - a cabaret or caf -concert in the Rue de la Gaiet http://www.udenap.org/images/caf_conc_photos/affiche_bobino.jpg ------- Another Montparnasse theatre: Le Th tre de Montrouge http://www.silverscreens.com/images/14/mistr_montrouge.jpg Cinemas around 1920s Montparnasse: The Montrouge Palace http://www.lips.org/bio_sandberg_GB.asp Maine Rive-Gauche 95 av de Maine Mistral 70 av de G n ral-Leclerc http://www.cinematour.com/theatres_fo.php?province=FR&page=5 PARKS ----- The Jardins de l'Observatoire were long narrow gardens joining Montparnasse to the Jardin de Luxembourg. http://tourisme.voila.fr/villes/paris/fra/sit/ville/06_jobse/zb01.htm Nowadays they're called Jardin Marco Polo. The Cimeti re du Montparnasse is the famous cemetery, often considered a Paris park: http://tourisme.voila.fr/villes/paris/fra/sit/ville/14_cmont/zb02.htm There's a little park called Parc Montparnasse, which shows up on "Mappy.com" as a few grey curves off the Rue d'Odessa. I'd guess this might be like some other Parisian open spaces - gravel with a few trees and benches, but couldn't find a picture or description online. (Except learning that a statue/fountain was installed there later on.) You might like this 1900 picture of the nearby Rue d'Odessa: http://www.ruavista.com/paulE.htm (second postcard down on left) HEADING NORTH ------------- There is less information on the shops than I'd like. If your educated Russians want bookshops, they should head northwards up the Boulevard St. Michel, into the university area. This direction eventually leads to the actual "Left Bank" of the Seine, famous for booksellers (bouquinistes) who set up stalls on the road running beside the river. For other shopping, they might try the Rue de Rennes, which had at least two department stores: "Magasin F lix Potin" http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0012776.html "Bazar de la Rue de Rennes" (pictures are only of other stores in the same chain) http://homepage.ntlworld.com/parallel/thesis/images/mu.htm Also in walking distance, but a little further west, the Rue de S vres had a big store: http://www.insecula.com/oeuvre/O0012841.html http://www.greatbuildings.com/buildings/Mont_S_Michel.html This picture of a group of shops near Od on might interest you: http://www.insecula.com/salle/MS02015.html It looks as if it's a "passage" with indoor shopping streets, like a modern mall. I saw a "Passage des Epinettes" on the map, which may have been one of the traditional shopping "passages" or arcades, a bit like the one in the photo above. (Leads off the Boulevard Montparnasse.) ====== ALESIA ====== I suggest you place your Russians in a side street off the Rue d'Al sia, but not too far west as in that direction it ran into the badly rundown area of Plaisance-Pern ty. Al sia sits between the worst part (in 1923-4) of the 14th arrondissement, and the vibrant centre of Montparnasse. It would be a half or three-quarter mile walk to Carrefour Vavin and the Rue de la Ga t , and a mile or so to the smarter nothern fringes of Montparnasse. Background on Al sia ://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cache:11Zqc_WQspgJ:www.metropoleparis.com/1998/314/alesi314.html+%22rue+d%27Al%C3%A9sia+is+%22&hl=en&ie=UTF-8 This page has a picture of a typical Parisian street sign for the "Rue d'Al sia" http://bus38.online.fr/parcourseng.html A picture from "Quartier Al sia" which may show buildings that were there in the twenties: http://parispaspris.free.fr/vestiges03.htm The Plaisance was considered insalubrious from the beginning of the twentieth century: http://paroisse.ndtravail.free.fr/histoire_de_la_paroisse.htm Here's a map of the 14th arrondissement: http://www.mairie14.paris.fr/mairie14/jsp/Portail.jsp?id_page=53 ====== PEOPLE ====== Some of the characters around in 1920s Montparnasse: Marie Vassilieff - biography http://www.harmonia-universum.com/ab/page2.html "What many historians remember, is Marie Vassilieff's cantine. She was distressed by the sorry plight of foreign artists cut off from their pensions because of the war, so she turned her atelier into a nearly free lunch." (Pensions=private income, atelier=studio)) http://www.metropoleparis.com/1999/403/403foujt.html Kiki of Montparnasse http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alice_Prin "In the years between the two world wars, Montparnasse, on the Left Bank of Paris, was a hotbed of artistic experimentation, social change, and notorious affairs. Man Ray, the renowned photographer, was there to document it all: he took his camera into cafes, salons, artists' studios, and writers' homes, and the resulting pictures provide a singular--and intimate--perspective on this legendary period in cultural and art history. [...] He lived a double life, dressing for dinner in society, then reassuming a bohemian posture for life among the writers and painters." http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0810943336/ref=pd_luc_21_lc_a1x0/103-3221163-5690225 Man Ray Moments from his life in 1923: " "In 1923 I was an established photographer" [...] July 6. Return to Reason is presented at the Coeur barbe soiree at the Theatre Michel. Dudley Murphy asks Man Ray to make a film. The project falls through and Murphy convinces Fernand Leger to make Ballet mecanique with Man Ray doing some of the photography. November. The Jockey opens at Montparnasse with Kiki performing. December.Marcel Duchamp, moves to the Hotel Istria, 29 rue Campagne-Premire next door to Man Ray. " http://imageexchange.com/exhibits/manray/intro1.shtml Archipenko, Chagall, L ger, Lipchitz, Soutine, Zadkine and many, many other artists and writers began their careers in Paris while working, living, or both, at La Ruche. [...] Many other artists and writers who did not live there, such as Apollinaire, Blaise Cendrars, Modigliani, Rousseau, and Salmon, frequented the place, cross-fertilizing creative talents. http://www.metropoleparis.com/2003/806/806ruche.html Ernest Hemingway The beginning of his book on 1920s Paris has the kind of details which support the view of Montparnasse as a place for impoverished writers. "It was either six or eight flights up to the top floor and it was very cold and I knew how much it would cost for a bundle of small twigs, three wire-wrapped packets of short, half-pencil length pieces of split pine to catch fire from the twigs, and then the bundle of half-dried lengths of hard wood that I must buy to make a fire that would warm the room." http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbninquiry.asp?ean=9780684824994&displayonly=CHP Soutine - painter http://www.france-belarus.com/article.php3?id_article=40 =================== 1920s FILM IN PARIS =================== A lecture on Ren Clair says he saw post-WWI French cinema being born "in a fever". It seemed to him to be the newest, most revolutionary medium of expression: "Sous ses yeux, le cin ma fran ais d’apr s-guerre na t dans la fi vre, avec Marcel L’Herbier, Abel Gance, Epstein, Feyder, avec Delluc" http://www.academie-francaise.fr/immortels/discours_reception/moinot.html I thought you might be particularly interested in the "Russian migr studio Albatros". In 1920 a group including director Alexandre Volkoff, actors Yvan Mosjoukine and Nathalia Lissenko, and producer Alexandre Kamenka, bought studios from Path . They are described as a group of enthusiasts working on silent films, following the "wild rhythm" of their star Mosjoukine and his directors. According to this article they launched many talented young people and had a huge influence on French cinema: http://www.russie.net/article.php3?id_article=534 The Albatros studio was at Montreuil, on the eastern edges of Paris: http://www.france.diplomatie.fr/mediasociete/cinema/promotion/diffusion_nc/collections/galerie/realisateurs/149.html Volkoff's work http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0901502/ Some information about his 1923 silent serial "La Maison du Myst re": http://pub1.ezboard.com/fmovieserialmessageboardssilentserials.showMessage?topicID=204.topic There were plenty of other "cin astes" in Paris. Directors and their films ------------------------- Julien Duvivier http://www.lips.org/bio_Duvivier_gb.asp Abel Gance http://www.artandculture.com/arts/artist?artistId=1287 Marcel L’Herbier http://frenchfilms.topcities.com/nf_mlherbier.html Jean Epstein (note his "spell at the Russian migr studio Albatros") http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Metro/9384/directors/epstein.htm Jacques Feyder http://entertainment.msn.com/celebs/celeb.aspx?mp=b&c=116051 Ladislas Starewitch http://perso.wanadoo.fr/ls/tbiograp.htm Louis Delluc http://www.lips.org/bio_delluc_GB.asp Producers --------- Bernard Natan http://www.lips.org/bio_natan_GB.asp Serge Sandberg http://www.lips.org/bio_sandberg_GB.asp Jean Benoit-L vy http://www.lips.org/bio_benoitlevy.asp ======================= 1920s RUSSIANS IN PARIS ======================= I'm sure you already know there were many Russians in Paris at that time. Many of them lived slightly west of Montparnasse in the 15th arrondissement. You can get some idea of the more famous names by looking at a list of a few of the 10,000 people buried in the Russian cemetery on the southern fringes of town: "Cimeti re russe de Sainte-Genevi ve-des-Bois". http://www.russie.net/france/gen-cimetiere.htm A few examples at random: Serge Boulgakov (1871 Livny, province d'Orel - 1944 Paris), theologian and priest, former Marxist, expelled from USSR in 1923 Ivan Bounine (1870 Voronej - 1953 Paris), writer of prose and poetry - emigrated to the Balkans in 1920, then to Paris Alexandre Mosjoukine (1877-1952) of the Albatros studios, and his brother Ivan Mosjoukine (Michel Chodzko) (1887-1939), opera and cinema artists There may be other pages on the same "Russians in France" website which would interest you: http://www.russie.net/france/ Little Russia in 1920s Paris ---------------------------- "La petite Russie" was in the 15th arrondissement, to the west of Montparnasse. People fleeing Russia settled in the 15th or nearby because there were plenty of apartments being built and one could get work there (e.g. in factories) that didn't require too much knowledge of French. Gradually "Russian" shops, churches, restaurants etc. were built. "Beaucoup d’entre eux se r fugi rent en France et, plus particuli rement dans le XVe arrondissement de Paris et dans les banlieues avoisinantes. Leur choix tait d essentiellement au fait que ces lieux taient en plein essor de constructions d’immeubles loyer accessible et qu'on pouvait y trouver du travail ne n cessitant pas une grande connaissance de la langue fran aise (ex: usines Citro n, Renault,...). Le nombre lev d’ glises, de magasins, de restaurants, d'associations de toutes sortes, ont fait du XVe arrondissement comme une "petite" Russie." http://www.paris15histoire.com/Russie.html "Le 15e arrondissement de Paris n'a-t-il pas t appel "la petite Russie" dans les ann es 1920 ! [...] Ce pass , exceptionnel dans l'histoire de l'art, marqu par la pr sence dans le 15e de Altman, Archipenko, Chagall, ...reste tr s pr sent dans l'arrondissement." http://www.russie.net/article.php3?id_article=552 I'm not sure if there were any Russian caf s yet, even in the 15th arrondissement. Paris was already well-supplied with drinking and eating places! ==================== 1920S PARIS & FRANCE ==================== "The First World War devastated many of the assumptions of the nineteenth century. Many in Europe had thought technology would lead to an ever more stable and prosperous mankind. The Great War showed it could kill and maim millions. The art and music of that period must be seen in the context of this radical shift in perspective. Things weren't just going to get better and better, old assumptions were turned over and hey... if the world's in a mess - maybe you should just say to hell with it, and have a big party. During the first quarter of the 20th century Paris became the magnet for a growing international colony of young artists, poets and musicians. The American poet Ezra Pound described it as the centre of the world, and the place for those who had "cast off the sanctified stupidities and timidities" and were looking for radical new directions. " http://www.bbc.co.uk/music/features/paris/background.shtml "Paris in this era was probably the most liberal place in Europe. It certainly was a lot more easy-going than the United States, where prohibition was being enforced. There was also a more liberal attitude to sex." http://www.bbc.co.uk/music/features/paris/pleasure.shtml "After the 'War to end all wars' and the Russian Revolution, Europe was in ferment and nowhere was [the] brew headier than in Paris." http://users.macunlimited.net/msteer/watcher/wparis.html " From 1921 to 1940, Sylvia Beach, and her companion, Adrienne Monnier, ran the famous Shakespeare & Company bookstore frequented by James Joyce, Ezra Pound, and Ernest Hemingway, at 12 rue de l'Od on. Caf Voltaire at 1 rue de l'Od on was a frequent stop for Paul Verlaine. Verlaine and Arthur Rimbaud caroused the streets and caf s of the Latin Quarter, corresponding to the 5th arrondissement, and scandalized le tout Paris. When they met with other poets in the H tel des Etrangers (still there, on boulevard St-Michel), they drank inordinate amounts of absinthe while reciting graphic verse." ://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cache:0Qxdqpf5JgAJ:www.francetourism.com/gayguide/art_outrageousParis.asp+%22boulevard+st+michel%22+1920+OR+1921+OR+1922+OR+1923+OR+1924+OR+19205&hl=en&ie=UTF-8 From a political viewpoint, this was the period of the Third Republic. In 1923 and the first half of 1924 the President was Alexandre Millerand. He was followed by Gaston Doumergue in June 1924. "LA III me R PUBLIQUE DE 1870 A 1940 ALEXANDRE MILLERAND (1920-1924) Pr sident de la R publique" http://gilles.maillet.free.fr/histoire/france/france.htm "The War had rallied political parties to the defence of the nation, leading to the formation of the Union Sacr e, symbolised by the strong personality of Clemenceau, the "Father of Victory". He remained in power until January 1920. Political life in the 1920s was dominated from then on by right-wing coalitions, except for the period (1924-1926) when the Cartel des Gauches (an alliance between Socialists and Radicals) was in power. Since December 1920, when the French Communist Party was formed, the Socialist Left had been divided. " http://www.france.diplomatie.fr/france/gb/histoire/histoire04.html Don't forget the Metro, essential to the life of Paris. These signs from Montparnasse are typical: http://www.planete-typographie.com/infos/typo/denfert-rochereau.html As I said at the beginning, I would be very happy to follow up any queries you have about this, or help with translating any French references which I haven't explained fully. It was an interesting challenge to dig out the actual facts you needed - location of theatres and shops, as well as finding a shabbier area nearby - to expand on a general overview of Montparnasse. Your book sounds intriguing; good luck with it. Best wishes - Leli Search strategy: I already had a general, rather vague, idea of the Left Bank in that era, but had to search carefully for the kind of details you wanted. Many of the searches included these terms to get the right period: "ann es vingt" OR "ann es 1920" OR twenties OR 1920s OR 1923 OR 1924 I often needed to eliminate hotel websites, and so added '-hotel' to many searches. These are the main words and phrases I used, either on their own or in combination: Rive Gauche Left Bank Paris Montparnasse Plan OR carte OR map 14 me OR 14e arrondissement 6 me arrondissement 5 me arrondissement 15 me arrondissement Al sia Plaisance Jardins OR parcs Th tre Ga t Cin ma Cin aste Film Magasin Boutiques Passages OR galeries Russe OR Russie Then I followed up personal and place names appearing in searches.



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