Squaring Wood for Gluing??

Published by: webmaster 2008-11-20

CONIFEROUS -Wood from conifers usualy softwoods or non-porous wood.::
File Format: PDF/Adobe Acrobat - View as HTMLBLOCKBOARD - A variation of laminboard with a core formed of square wood .. layers, particles or fibres of wood, glued or compressed together to produce
http://www.uktradeinfo.com/pagecontent/infocentre/usefullinks/classDownloads/wood.pdfHOME

New to wordworking and just purchasing my TS2400, my budget will not allow me to purchase a plainer or a joiner for sometime. So how do you get the boards even and square so you can glue them up??? :(

where do I find plans for the squaring board.. I have an idea for it but not sure of dimensions. :D

I don't know of a link at the moment that shows how to build one but it is a pretty quick project.

I have seen a couple of styles for building these. I built a large one and plan to build a smaller one as soon as I can.

The one I built covers the entire table top of the saw.

I purchased some good 3/4 inch hardwood ply to form the base of the squaring board and cut it to cover the table saw.

I also purchased some clear 1/2 inch red oak and a straight 2x4.

After carefully aligning everything on my saw, I rip cut two rails from the red oak that will run in the miter slots. I carefully cut them so that they would perfectly fit the miter slots and made them a little longer than the distance from front to back of the 3/4 inch ply.

Ukulele Kit Assembly Instructions::
File Format: PDF/Adobe Acrobat - View as HTMLthe sides are properly squared up with the top and back. Start with a 7" x 36" piece of 3/4" . be sure you’ll leave enough wood for gluing after you trim
http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/i-5347/i-5347.pdfHOME

I then cut rip cut a slim portion off one side of the 2x4 to have a nice flat edge. I then cut two pieces from the 2x4 to make a front fence and a rear fence. You could use another material for the fence if you wish, I wanted a nice, big fence to grip so I used a 2x4. I then set the fences aside.

Lower the blade below the table top.

Place the two oak rails in the miter slots. By using 1/2 inch oak, you get just a little standing proud of the miter slots. I then put a bead of wood glue along the oak rails and carefully positioned the ply board base on the rails. I predrilled and secured the strips with three short wood screws per rail. Make sure you don't drill through to the miter slot bottom. Mark the drill bit with a depth stop or a piece of masking tape so you'll know when to stop.

Now, place one of your fences along the back edge of the board (the edge farthest from you when standing in front of the saw). Predrill and secure the fence with wood screws. Note that this fence doesn't have to be perfectly square as it is there for structural reasons.

Back the board up and raise the blade about an inch. Carefully make a cut through the center of the board but stop a few inches before you get to the front edge of the board and shut the saw off without moving the board. Lower the blade and put the squaring board in a comfortable position on the table saw.

Place the other fence along the front edge of the board.

Predrill and secure ONE END OF THE FENCE ONLY with a wood screw to form a pivot point.

Position a square along the kerf you cut in the base and square up the front fence so that is it perfectly square with the kerf. Secure the fence with a quick clamp. I fired a couple of 2 inch brads up through the bottom instead of using a clamp. Either way, make sure the fence is still square with the kerf.

Predrill and screw the other end of the front fence to keep it in position.

Turn on the saw and finish cutting through the center of the base and the front fence.

You now have a full size squaring board.

You can also make an adjustable stop for the front fence using scrap wood, some threaded inserts and machine screws.

You can also make a smaller version that only covers one half of your table top and uses a single rail in one miter slot for those smaller jobs. I still want to make one of those.

Oh, I also sealed the whole thing with a satin poly to keep it clean and (hopefully) to prevent any warping from humidity here in the deep south.
Good luck.

[ 09-04-2001: Message edited by: George ]

[ 09-04-2001: Message edited by: George ]

use a router with a straight cutting bit.
place the two pieces of wood apart by slightly less than the width of the bit. clamp a straightedge to the wood and guide the router along the straghtedge. Perfect joint every time!!!

Try your table saw. I recently purchased a TS2424 and made some rip cuts in red oak. I was amazed. I took two different pieces that had been ripped (not the two pieces created by a single rip cut) and put them together and I had to look for changes in the grain to see the seam!

And that was with the blade that came with the saw!

You may want to build yourself a squaring board too. It can come in handy.

[ 09-04-2001: Message edited by: George ]

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